Mountain View Cottages Carmarthenshire

Days Out

Cardigan Bay.

Taking the road through Lampeter (surely the smallest University town in Britain?) head for the coast on the A482 towards Aberaeron. Clearly signposted before reaching the town is the National Trust owned Llanerchaeron mansion. This is an 18th century Gentleman’s residence & farm on an intimate scale. Due to the conservatism of the owners it was preserved virtually intact until it was bequeathed to the trust & is a gem. Aberaeron is an interesting example of a town which was planned & built in the early part of the 19th century. There are some good places to eat there including The Hive on the Quay.

Taking the coast road to Aberystwyth affords some wonderful views of the bay. Aberystwyth was the honorary capital of rural Wales when the University & the National Library of Wales (which is worth a visit) was built there by public subscription. The Tree House in Baker Street is a good organic café. You can stroll along the prom & take a trip up the Cliff railway to take in the breathtaking views over the bay. Just outside the town is the terminus for the Vale of Rheidol narrow gauge railway to Devil’s Bridge. There is a hotel & tea room at Devil’s Bridge. If you prefer to drive there then take A4120 out of the town & having visited this romantic spot you can make your way towards home via Tregaron where the Talbot Hotel offers the hospitality of an antique coaching inn.

Cambrian Mountains.

From Lampeter take the A485 to Tregaron. As you travel through Llangybi the scenery begins to alter subtly as the mountains become apparent in the distance. The Romans took this route to the tin mines at Ffair Rhos & it is easy to imagine how the soldiers looked apprehensively at the foothills crowding the horizon. Pass through Tregaron & take the B3443 towards Pontrhydfendigaid (the bridge over the blessed ford). In “Bont”, as it is called locally, Strata Florida Abbey is signed to the right. Having reached the Abbey there are some fine walks to be had.

Head back towards Tregaron & stop at Cors Caron, an important wildlife reserve which has an exciting boardwalk route around the bog. There are pubs & cafes in Bont & Tregaron so you can take a break at your will. In Tregaron there is a good Craft Centre & gallery which adjoins the Rhiannon Gold & Jewellery centre. The Hafan Café in the square is the best place to eat. Drive out of town leaving the Talbot Hotel to your right on the tiny road towards Abergwesyn. This narrow switchback affords the best experience of the Cambrian Mountains to be had whilst remaining on tarmac! Part way to Abergwesyn you will find the sublime Soar y Mynydd chapel – probably the most remote chapel in Wales. It’s a place of great spiritual power, beautifully set near the banks of the River Camddwr. One may return either by following the road around Llyn Brianne, the source of the River Twyi or by continuing through Abergwesyn to Llanwrtyd Wells, the smallest town in Britain & home to some strange & famous events: The Man versus Horse Race & the Bog Snorkelling championship!

Swansea & The Gower

Swansea is the birthplace of Dylan Thomas, who called it “an ugly, lovely town”. For those particularly interested in the poet there is the Dylan Thomas Centre, a Dylan Thomas trail & “Dylan’s” – a bookshop specialising in Thomas’s work. However it is an uncompromisingly shabby dock town which has seen more prosperous times. See “Twin Town” for a portrayal of modern life there.


The Gower is a complete contrast with it’s vast unfrequented beaches. Drive out on the A4118 and stop at the Gower Heritage Centre for some background information on the Gower - & a pleasant cup of tea! Continue to explore by following the road to Rhossili where you can park & walk down to Rhossili Bay which is a National Trust owned bird reserve with spectacular views of “The Worms Head”. Returning via Oldwalls will take you to “The Greyhound” which is a comfortable & cosy pub with good food.

For more of Dylan Thomas follow the A48 back through to St Clears & turn off for Laugharne where you will find the famous restored “boathouse” where Dylan did much of his writing overlooking the “heron priested shore”. Browns Hotel in the town was Dylan’s “local” & is still a lively & welcoming place.

Tenby & South Pembrokeshire.

Tenby is a cheerful, traditional seaside town. The old city walls are still intact in some places & quaint streets lead down to a picturesque harbour. Further along the coast Manorbier is a cosy little settlement with an impressive castle (the birthplace of Gerald of Wales) overlooking a beautiful little bay.

Continuing Westwards either along the coast through Freshwater East or through Pembroke you will arrive at the marvellous National Trust owned Stackpole Estate. We prefer to park at Bosherston to the West of Stackpole where there are a couple of good tea-shops & to walk back along the coast taking in the lily ponds en route. Being Trust land there is no fear of trespassing or getting lost & the cliffs are very precipitous & offer dramatic sea-views.

Pembroke Dock & Milford Haven are pretty industrialised but Angle & Dale on the South & the North approaches to the Haven have a special atmosphere relating to their extreme coastal positions & their links with sailing & fishing. As you might expect, both settlements have excellent pubs! Returning via the A477, East of Kilgetty, you pass signs to NT owned Colby Woodland Gardens which, for lovers of landscape & gardens, should be included in a visit to South Pembrokeshire.

St David’s & North Pembrokeshire.

St Bride’s Bay is the most beautiful bay in Wales. The coastal footpath from Marloes near Skomer to St David’s affords spectacular views. However it is sufficient to take the A40 to Haverfordwest & head due West for Broadhaven then to follow the coast road North towards St David’s to obtain a flavour of the terrain. Our favourite spot is Druidston Haven, about 3 miles North of Broadhaven, where there is “The Druidston” – a hotel & pub offering Restaurant & Bar meals & overlooking the Haven. One may set off walking along the coast in either direction from here. Continuing North across Newgale Sands will bring you to St David’s. The cathedral is dedicated to the patron saint of Wales who was born & died here & is very important to the spiritual life of the nation. The refectory serves delicious chocolate brownies. For a pub meal the Farmers Arms (which is paradoxically the home of the lifeboat crew) in Goat Street is recommended. Although St David’s is a mile or two from the sea you may walk or drive to the coast easily from here &, from a point close to the dramatically situated lifeboat station at St Justinians, take a boat across to Ramsey Island.

Returning via the A487 through Fishguard (where the Richard Burton version of “Under Milk Wood” was filmed) & the B4313 you will skirt the Preseli Mountains. It was from these mountains that the stone which formed Stonehenge was quarried. At Rosebush is the famous “Tafarn Zinc” – an eccentric Welsh hostelry & worth a call.

Ceredigion

Through Talley towards Lampeter but turn left for Llansawel just after the gate lodge to the Edwinsford estate. Turn left in Rhydcymerau to cross Llanlliwni Mountain & take in the enormous view from the plateau as you head towards the small towns of Llandyssul & Newcastle Emlyn. This area contains many craft workshops & plant nurseries. As you follow the Teifi between the two towns you may look out for the brown signs to Drefach woollen mill & museum which is a pleasant destination. From Newcastle Emlyn head towards Cardigan, the county town, & you will pass over the dramatic falls at Cenarth where, in season, salmon can be seen leaping up the rapids. Near Cilgerran is the Welsh Wildlife Centre where there are 270 acres of trails & viewpoints. Cardigan is the county town of Ceredigion.

Many roads lead out to the coast from the A 487 running North or South from Cardigan. Newport to the South is a pretty little coastal town & claims to be the original of “Llarregub”, the setting of “Under Milk Wood”. Dylan Thomas lived here during the war. It’s fun to find your way home across country.


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